Everyone is talking about ultra processed food. What’s all the fuss about?
In 2016, before the widespread discussion about ultra-processed food (UPF) began, a documentary called Embrace was released. In this powerful film, Taryn Brumfitt explores the global issue of body image. At the time, I participated in several panel discussions related to the documentary. During one of these discussions, I mentioned that some foods were toxic and harmful. A member of the audience disagreed, arguing that all food is good for us. I’ve never subscribed to that belief. Even then, I was acutely aware of the many chemicals and processed compounds – things I hesitate to even call food – that were being added to what we consume.
Thankfully, the conversation around UPF has gained momentum, thanks to individuals like Dr. Chris van Tulleken. His work has brought much-needed attention to the truth about these so-called ‘foods’ and their impact on our health.
If you haven’t yet read or listened to Chris’s book, Ultra-Processed People – I highly recommend it. It’s available for free on Spotify, complete with bonus chats between Chris and his twin brother Xand.
The term ‘ultra-processed foods’ comes from the NOVA food classification system, which was developed by researchers at the University of São Paulo, Brazil.
The system places food into four categories based on how much they have been processed during their production:
- Unprocessed or minimally processed foods: This includes produce such as fruit, vegetables, milk, fish, pulses, eggs, nuts and seeds that have no added ingredients and have been little altered from their natural state.
- Processed ingredients: This includes foods that are added to other foods rather than eaten by themselves, such as salt, sugar and oils.
- Processed foods: These are foods that are made by combining foods from groups 1 and 2, which are altered in a way that home cooks could do themselves. They include foods such as jam, pickles, tinned fruit and vegetables, homemade breads and cheeses.
- Ultra-processed foods: Ultra-processed foods typically have more than one ingredient that you never or rarely find in a kitchen. They also tend to include many additives and ingredients that are not typically used in home cooking, such as preservatives, emulsifiers, sweeteners, and artificial colours and flavours. These foods generally have a long shelf life.
Chris explains the science behind UPFs, exposing the conflicts of interest and bias that taint so many studies and committees. He bravely calls out researchers and studies funded by the UPF industry, a step I’ve hesitated to take in my own work, such as my last book, Your Fertile Years, out of concern for legal repercussions. However, Chris doesn’t hold back, clearly stating how UPFs are linked to an increase in various diseases and even early death. I don’t think you will eat supermarket ice cream again!
An eye-opening part of the book is Chris’s discussion of the addictive nature of UPFs. He uses Pringles as an example. They offer little nutritional value, but the initial hit to the taste buds primes your stomach to expect food, which it doesn’t receive. This leaves you reaching for more, caught in a cycle of consumption that only feeds the addiction.
When I had my first child, I wanted to completely ban processed sugar from his diet. Having struggled with sugar addiction my whole life, I was determined not to pass this on. However, friends with older children advised against it, pointing out that my son might go wild when he encountered sugary treats at parties. So, I opted for moderation instead, and this approach has worked well. My sons have a pretty healthy relationship with sugar.
It has, however, taken me years to tackle my sugar addiction. This was advice I gave myself during the very first episode of my podcast, Why Didn’t Anyone Tell Me This? back in January 2023. Finally, this summer, I conquered my sugar addiction.
It wasn’t an easy journey. I tried hypnosis several times, which helped to an extent, but I needed the right time and mental space to truly address the issue.
Many people advised me to allow the occasional treat, but I disagree – no one would suggest that an alcoholic should have the odd drink or someone who has quit smoking should have a cigarette. So, on August 20, 2024, I went cold turkey. I’ve completely cut out chocolate, sweets, cakes, biscuits, pastries, and more recently, crisps. People often ask how I feel. Honestly, I don’t feel vastly different physically, but I’ve been told I look healthier. What I do feel is psychologically strong to have eliminated toxic sugar from my life, as I no longer experience the regret that always followed indulging in it. Read my blog here.
Let’s talk about drinks. For those who know me, you’ll know I’m a water-only drinker. I don’t drink tea or coffee and rarely drink alcohol. I raised my kids the same way; water and milk only. No squash or sodas. This aligns with Chris’s advice, as he shares shocking statistics about the prevalence of sugar-laden drinks among children.
One of the most striking examples in his book is the issue with zero-calorie drinks, often marketed as weight-loss aids. Chris explains that when we consume these, as with Pringles, they stimulate the gut to expect calories, but when no energy arrives, hunger intensifies. Chris references the research. Of 34 studies suggesting there is a link between zero-calorie sodas and obesity and type 2 diabetes, 33 were independent. Conversely, 25 out of 26 studies that found no link were funded by the food industry, revealing a clear vested interest.
One of the most upsetting chapters in Chris van Tulleken’s book was about formula milk. The marketing of formula, particularly in developing countries, has been nothing short of criminal. Chris explained how aggressive advertising convinced mothers to use formula instead of breastfeeding, even in situations where they couldn’t afford enough formula, lacked clean water to prepare it, or couldn’t sterilize the equipment. This has tragically resulted in preventable infant deaths, while mothers had breasts full of milk that could have nourished their babies.
I believe that best steps we can take to improve our health is to reduce or eliminate UPFs. However, this is easier said than done. We are bombarded by convincing advertising, it’s cheaper to eat UPF, and when we’re out and about, finding truly healthy food options can be a challenge. For instance, Chris talks about Pret a Manger which I thought offered healthy choices, but he reveals the number of chemicals in some of their products.
My most-viewed TikTok videos have been those where I used the Open Food Facts app to test products in Tesco, revealing how many are ultra-processed. Since then, I’ve stopped buying bread – even the supposedly healthy options – and started making my own sourdough. If you want to check whether a food is ultra-processed, apps like Open Food Facts are a great place to start.
What frustrates me is that other countries, such as Brazil and Chile, use clear labelling systems like black octagons to indicate ultra-processed foods, but the UK has resisted this. Chris has been advocating for this for years – why hasn’t it happened?
Next year, I plan to focus more on nutrition in my podcast, including an episode dedicated to UPFs. I’ll also blog about glucose monitoring and my experience with the Zoe app, particularly now that more information about its limitations has emerged.
As Chris says in his book, we need to make real, proper food the standard. UPFs are bad for our health, and their harms are far from trivial. It’s time to take control of what we eat—for ourselves and for the next generation.
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